Quick Release Mounting Kit and Tubus Fly Classic Rear Rack
BELOW are photos of a Tubus Fly Rack installed . . .
Regarding this rack installation . . .
- Note that the Fly Rack in Black in the photos above is no longer available in the USA. We can do this setup only with the Fly Classic Stainless Steel rear rack.
- Mounting a Fly rack to a rear brake can be tricky, so we are providing photos of a Fly installation to help you see one way to install a Fly rack on your bike with no mounting eyelets.
- The bike in these photos has both upper and lower rack mounting eyelets, but we ignored the eyelets to show you how to mount a rack on a bike with no mounting eyelets.
- We attached the rack to the rear axle/quick release assembly with the Tubus Quick Release Rack Mounting Kit, and we mounted the upper rack mounting stay to the rear brake. Many bikes already have lower mounting eyelets, and don’t require the Quick Release Mounting Kit.
- When you bend the upper mounting stay you’ll want to bend only on the round portion. Enlarge photo #6 and you’ll see that there is a barely visible white crack in the aluminum just behind the attachment bolt – just where the aluminum mounting stay was pressed flat. Since the round portion of the stay is significantly stiffer than the flat part, the bending forces are concentrated where it changes from flat to round, and a crack forms. This mounting stay was bent in the jaws of a large pair of channel-lock pliers, and the flat tip was bent inadvertently because it contacted the back of the pliers. We recommend using a vice, or inserting the stay in a hole drilled in a board, and using the edge of the board for leverage. There are endless ways. Just make sure there is no force applied to the flat tip of the stay.
- The mounting stay is made from an 8mm diameter solid aluminum rod. It is really just a large diameter piece of aluminum wire. Tubus makes the upper mounting stay from a solid rod so it will be easy to bend. If it was made of hollow tubing like the rest of the rack, the rod could crimp when it is bent. Bending the stays is actually quite easy. The trick is knowing where to bend. We recommend making a template first. Get a long straight piece of smaller diameter wire. A coat hanger or a bicycle spoke might be just right. Mount the bottom of the rack and tighten the fittings enough to balance the top of the rack at the angle you want – usually level. Insert the wire into the fitting at the top of the rack. Come forward with the wire and bend it where you need to reach the fitting you have inserted into the brake. Once you have bent the template wire, you can measure from the tip to the bend, and then duplicate that bend on the rack mounting stay. Using this method allows you to try multiple bends on the template until you get just what you need, so you will only have to do one bend on the final piece. The stay in the photos above has a gentle curve. You can use a sharper bend if necessary.
- The stainless steel piece that comes with the rack is included in the parts kit. For most installations this piece is adequate. You will need to bend the stainless steel piece to the correct angle. Since every bike has different frame angles, Tubus can’t pre-bend them for your bike. Some brakes have fancy sculpted upper brake lever arms that can interfere with this piece. A few of my customers have had to visit local machine shops to have custom stainless steel pieces made for attaching the mounting stays to their brakes. Some got lucky and found pieces at their local hardware stores or bike shops that worked.
- Note that the Quick Release Mounting Kit will fit several other Tubus racks such as the Vega, Cargo, Cosmo and Logo. If your bike has two steel or aluminum seatstays above the brake that are NOT made of carbon fiber, then one of these other racks may be preferable to the Fly. Most of my Fly customers are looking for an ultra light weight rack for a race bike with no eyelets. The Fly is not the only rack that fits that description. You may want to consider the Tubus Vega as well. the Vega is still very much a minimalist ultra light design and very similar to the Fly, but it uses two upper mounting stays. With two upper mounting stays you can get a stronger two-point upper attachment by fastening them to the seatstays above the brake. If you don’t have the mounting eyelets, then you can use the Tubus Stay Mounting Clamps from my Tubus Rack Fitting Solutions page. The Ultra light Titanium Airy and Carry Racks can also be fastened to the rear brake with a single mounting stay – or with two upper mounting stays to mounting clamps or built-in rack fittings.
- A SAFETY NOTE: The stainless steel piece that is inserted in the brake stack adds width to the brake assembly, and reduces the number of turns of thread available to the brake nut behind the brake bridge. You may need to get a longer brake nut. Most shops carry them. Any local bike shop can get them, and you can find them online. This piece adds about three millimeters of width, so you are losing about three millimeters of threads. The next longer sized nut you can find may be slightly too long and may bottom out inside the brake bridge before it is fully tight, in which case you may need to shorten the new nut a bit by holding it against a grinding wheel, or a “Dremel” cut-off wheel. Most good bike or automotive shops should have a tool that can quickly remove a bit of metal from the nut to give you the length you need to engage enough threads on your brake bolt. If you can’t tell how many threads are engaging the brake, try putting fresh grease on the brake bolt threads. Insert it into the brake bridge, tight the nut, remove the nut and examine the brake bolt to see where the grease was disturbed. You can see whether the nut engaged a lot of threads or only a few. I don’t know how to tell you how many threads the nut should engage. A little common sense is required, or ask someone you trust to know better than you. Do pay attention to this safety matter. If I didn’t explain this adequately, ask me about this when you purchase your rack.